Recognizing and Correcting Common Bath Fan Problems
A bathroom fan that isn't installed properly can cause more impairment than no fan at all. But here'south the good news: Bath fans aren't that complicated.
Common Bathroom Fan Problems and Solutions
The humble bath fan does more than prevent a foggy mirror after a hot shower — it pulls moisture out of your firm. Without information technology, excess humidity can cause mold growth and peeling paint, or bigger issues like rotten window frames, damaged drywall and wood decay inside walls. Repair costs can easily accomplish thousands of dollars.
On the other hand, a fan that wasn't installed properly can actually crusade more damage than no fan at all. But here'south the good news: Bathroom fans aren't complicated. If you understand a few basics, you tin recognize and right virtually any problem.
Problem: The Fan Is Running Merely Not Working
If your fan appears to run just fine but doesn't seem to expel air and moisture, light an incense stick and hold information technology near the fan. The fume should flow apace into the fan. Alternatively, place a tissue over the fan grille — the fan'due south suction should hold it in place. If your fan fails either of these tests, here are some likely causes:
Solutions for Running Fan Issues:
The Grill Is Muddy
Bath fans draw in dust and lint, which tin can eventually clog the grille and limit airflow. Vacuuming the grille is a good start. Simply for a really skillful cleaning, remove the grille, soak it in soapy h2o and scrub it with a brush.
The Dampers Are Stuck
There are ii dampers for a bath fan, 1 at the housing and another where the duct exits the building. If they don't open easily or open just partly, airflow will be weak.
Attempt moving the outside damper past hand to make sure it opens hands. Clean away any droppings that might hinder motility. Interior dampers rarely stick, but if you suspect problem, remove the grille and push open the damper with a stiff wire.
The Bathroom Is Too Airtight
A fan can but bulldoze air out of the bath if replacement air can get into the bathroom. Without adequate replacement air, the fan may not exist able to warm upward the duct and completely evacuate the moisture.
The easiest way to let in replacement air is to leave the door croaky open while the fan is running. Some other solution is to trim the bottom of the door then that at that place's at least a 1/ii-in. gap between the door and the floor.
Trouble: Drips and Water Stains
If water drips from the fan grill, you have a condensation problem. If yous meet water stains on the ceiling (fifty-fifty several feet from the fan), that could also be condensation.
Here'due south what'southward going on: On a chilly 24-hour interval, the exhaust duct in your attic is cold. When yous flip on the fan and send steamy air through the duct, wet gathers within the duct. Usually, this condensation process quickly stops, and the moisture evaporates equally warm air heats the duct.
If that doesn't happen, h2o continues to class and will somewhen trickle back to the fan housing and baste down through the grill or drip out through tiny openings in the duct. Well-nigh often this will occur when the duct is run through the cranium, but it tin can also happen when a duct is inside a wall or floor.
Solutions for Water Drip Problems:
The Outside Damper Is Stuck
If the damper won't open, the fan may bulldoze plenty air through the duct to crusade condensation, but not enough to warm the duct and dry out it out. In that location's a damper on the fan housing too, only the outside damper is much more than probable to stick.
Find the vent hood on your roof or exterior wall. Brand sure the damper isn't obstructed or stuck. Ordinarily, only moving information technology with your finger is enough to free information technology.
Missing Insulation
Ducts need to be fully encased in insulation. Without information technology, the duct never warms upward and condensation continues as long as the fan is running. Grab a flashlight and pop your head into the attic. If your duct is uninsulated or the insulation has fallen off, add some or reattach the loose parts. Use aluminum record to fasten the insulation to the fan housing and the vent hood.
Fan Is Vented Into the Attic
Terminating the duct in the attic is surprisingly mutual — and harmful. Moist air will condense on framing and sheathing, forming ice or water that volition support rot and mold or harm the rooms below. Consider this a wake-upwardly call and extend the duct to vent the air outside before major damage occurs!
Duct in Vented Soffit
It's OK to run a duct outside through a soffit — unless the soffit contains inlets for roof venting. In that case, moist air coming out can re-enter the attic through soffit vents; the event is similar to venting directly into the attic. If you have vented soffits, you'll have to run the duct exterior through the roof.
Other Potential Issues
Ice Dams
If your fan duct has loose insulation or information technology vents into the attic, the warm air may create a warm spot, risking an ice dam. The warm spots on the roof melt snowfall, and the meltwater flows down to colder areas, freezes and forms a dam. Be sure to check the vent in the attic to make sure the insulation is tight to the duct and isn't sagging down from the roof vent.
Noisy Fan
If your bath fan seems louder than information technology used to be, information technology's not just your imagination. Over the years, fans go noisy as the motor parts article of clothing out. This is peculiarly common with cheaper models.
Some fan models allow you to supercede just the motor. Merely if that's non an option, choose a fan that fits into the existing ceiling opening — then you won't accept to cut into the bathroom ceiling!
Cold Air Is Coming In
It'southward possible for the damper on the duct hood to go stuck open up. This allows cold air to come back in, and in some cases the force of the fan is not enough to annul the opposite airflow. This is most apparent in the winter months.
Check the exterior vent to make sure information technology'south costless of debris. Be sure the damper tin can motility freely fifty-fifty if at that place are no visible obstructions.
What to Consider When Shopping For a New Bath Fan
If yous're fed up with your current fan and are because getting a new 1, here are three things you should consider while shopping.
Size the Fan for the Room
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- Fan chapters is rated in cubic feet per minute, or CFM. This indicates the volume of air the fan is able to move.
- The higher the number, the more air that is evacuated. Almost bath fans are rated from 50 to 110 CFM.
- You should cull a fan with a CFM rating that roughly equals the square footage of your bathroom, but these ratings are but part of the story.
- Long runs of flexible duct in your attic volition piece of work against the efficiency of the fan.
- PRO TIP: When in doubt, opt for a higher CFM rating.
Cheque the Sone Rating
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- "Sone" is the term used in the industry to describe how loud a bath fan is. The lower the number, the quieter the fan will be.
- One sone is roughly equal to the noise your fridge makes. Almost fans are between .75 and ane.five sones, just there are some as depression every bit .three or as high as half-dozen!
- PRO TIP: Experts generally recommend fans with ratings of 1.v or less.
Don't Buy a Cheap Fan
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- Most home centers have basic bath fans for well-nigh $20, but they're loud and have low CFM ratings. It'south smart to spend at least twice that; yous'll get a fan that'southward quieter, pushes more air and is likely to last longer.
- Higher cost volition commonly get you more features, such as LED lights, humidity sensors and quieter functioning.
- PRO TIP: Y'all can fifty-fifty detect high-finish fans that cost only nearly $200.
Source: https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/common-bath-fan-problems/
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